Vitriol d’œillet (Carnation Vitriol) is an angry scent, Serge Lutens explains. Visually, the flower is very crinkly, and the edges of the petals are saw-toothed: so we’re not in a soft and gentle register. And not in olfactory terms either: carnation isn’t really a flowery flower, it’s actually an explosion of spicy notes. To recreate the smell of this angry flower, Lutens used cloves, hot pepper and gillyflower. At the same time, he goes on, Vitriol d’œillet is a very elegant scent. After all, don’t dandies wear carnations on their lapels?
Heart: Black, pink, cayenne pepper
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